Exploring Beijing’s Hutongs: The Historical Changes of Hounan Yan and the Zhang Boju Former Residence Tour

In Beijing’s Shichahai area, there is an ancient hutong named “Hounan Yan” (South Shore of Houhai). It runs east-west, slightly tilting northwards, starting from Yinding Bridge Hutong in the east and ending at Liuyin Street in the west, with a total length of about 230 meters.

Because it borders Houhai to the north, it was directly called “Riverbank” during the Qing Dynasty. After 1911, it was renamed “Houhai South Riverbank.” In 1965, the nearby Li Guang Bridge, East Street, and Sihe Lane were merged into it, and this hutong became known as “Hounan Yan,” the name we are familiar with today.

Now, when you start from Yinding Bridge and stroll along Hounan Yan, you will experience a fascinating blend of modern trends and profound historical culture.

 1. A Legend in the Bamboo Grove: The Former Residence of Zhang Boju and Pan Su

After passing rows of densely packed bars, a quiet bamboo grove suddenly appears before your eyes. Hidden within the grove is a red lacquered gate with a plaque reading “Zhang Boju Pan Su Former Residence Memorial Hall”—this is No. 26 Hounan Yan. Unfortunately, the memorial hall is now closed to visitors, but from its external footprint, the courtyard still conveys a sense of its former scale and grandeur.

2. One of the “Four Young Masters of the Republic of China”: The Guardian of National Treasures Who Spent His Entire Fortune

Many young people today may not be very familiar with Zhang Boju. He was a renowned collector, calligrapher, painter, and poet in modern Chinese history. His father was an influential figure of the time, having served as the Governor of Henan and later founding the China Salt Industry Bank. Zhang Boju himself, along with figures like Zhang Xueliang, was known as one of the “Four Young Masters of the Republic of China,” referring to four exceptionally talented and prominent scions of wealthy families of that era. He was proficient in almost all traditional Chinese arts, such as poetry, calligraphy, painting, and the guqin (a seven-stringed zither).

His wife, Pan Su, was also a famous landscape painter. She initially studied bird-and-flower painting before specializing in landscapes. The couple shared a deep mutual passion for art.

3. Spending a Fortune for National Treasures: The Rescue of “Pingfu Tie” and “Spring Outing”

The most admirable aspect of Zhang Boju’s life was his immense financial investment, even at the cost of selling family properties, to acquire ancient Chinese calligraphy and paintings that were at risk of being lost overseas. Ultimately, he donated these immensely valuable treasures to the state without compensation, many of which became top-tier artifacts in the Palace Museum’s collection.

For example, he spent 40,000 silver dollars to purchase “Pingfu Tie” from Puyu, a descendant of Prince Gong. This is a handwritten letter by Lu Ji, a writer from the Western Jin Dynasty, and is the earliest surviving authentic calligraphic work by a famous figure in China. A Japanese buyer once offered 300,000 silver dollars for it, but Zhang firmly refused. To prevent the national treasure “Spring Outing” from leaving the country, he reluctantly sold a property he had previously purchased
—originally belonging to the Qing Dynasty eunuch Li Lianying—and used the 220 taels of gold obtained to acquire the painting.

In 1956, Zhang Boju and his wife Pan Su donated several priceless calligraphy and painting works they had treasured for decades to the state, including “Pingfu Tie” and “Spring Outing.” Later, they donated many other pieces from their collection, such as “Zhang Haohao’s Poem” by the Tang Dynasty poet Du Mu and “Zhushangzuo Tie” by the Song Dynasty calligrapher Huang Tingjian, all of which are extremely important artifacts in the history of Chinese art. In 1965, Zhang Boju donated his remaining collection of over 30 ancient calligraphy and painting works, including “Hundred Flowers Scroll,” to the Jilin Provincial Museum.

4. Historical Relics: The Site of Fengtai Nunnery and Its Literary Imagination

Further along the hutong, No. 36 Hounan Yan is the site of “Fengtai Nunnery.” This nunnery was one of the “Nine Nunneries and One Temple” in the historical Shichahai area, built in the ninth year of the Qianlong Emperor’s reign during the Qing Dynasty (1744 AD). It originally faced south with its back to the north and contained nineteen hall rooms. Today, the site has been converted into residential housing, with many small structures built within the courtyard. Only a section of the outer wall faintly retains traces of the nunnery. Next door connects to the backyard of the former Qing Dynasty Prince Gong’s alternative residence.

Regarding this area, writer Wang Bin authored a historical novel titled “Fengtai Nunnery.” The book narrates history from the perspective of the Ming Dynasty’s Princess Changping and fictionalizes her story of becoming a nun here, adding a layer of literary legend to this place.

5. The Blending of Ancient and Modern Daily Life: From the Hustle and Bustle of the Common People to Neon Nights

Today’s Hounan Yan, after years of planning and development, has been revitalized. A large area near Houhai has been transformed into an expansive green park. It’s a place where one can “see water and hills, with weeping willows brushing the shore,” offering a perfect spot for relaxation. The ancient residential houses, historically significant prince’s mansions, and former residences of notable figures collectively create the unique Beijing flavor and historical atmosphere of this area. Some refined dessert shops have been added along the shore, with lounge chairs placed for visitors to rest. During the day, you can listen to birdsong, watch wild ducks play on the water, and hear the sounds of elderly people playing chess and chatting in the distance…

Morning Hustle and Bustle:

In the early morning, the shadows of weeping willows gently sway against the gray bricks and tiles of the siheyuan (courtyard houses). Dew clings to the stone railings along the bank. The bars, lively during the day, now appear quiet and gentle. At this time, smoke rises from the siheyuan kitchens in the hutong, marking the start of a day filled with the atmosphere of everyday life.

Neon Dreams at Night:

As night falls, the LED lights from the bars flow like rivers across their glass surfaces, and neon reflections redden the water. Meanwhile, the siheyuan hidden behind the bars quietly slip into dreams, sheltered by tall ancient trees.

Hounan Yan is precisely such a hutong that perfectly blends the ancient with the modern. It possesses both tranquil, leisurely aspects and lively, vibrant ones, quietly narrating the ongoing story of Beijing’s constant transformation.