Beijing’s Daxiangfeng and Xiaoxiangfeng Hutongs: History and Stories Hidden by Houhai

Amid the labyrinth of hutongs near Shichahai Lake in Beijing lie Daxiangfeng Hutong and Xiaoxiangfeng Hutong, two ordinary yet story-rich lanes. Adjacent to the renowned Prince Gong’s Mansion, they have witnessed countless tales of the Qing Dynasty mansions, literati, and modern celebrities alike. Today, let us step into these two hutongs and explore the dramatic stories behind them.

The Origin of the Hutongs’ Names

The names of both hutongs are tied to their geographical location. In the Qing Dynasty, as they lay just outside the towering northern wall of Prince Gong’s Mansion, they were vividly named Qiangfeng Hutongs (Wall Crevice Hutongs) at first.

Later, the northern section of the lane was demolished, splitting into two alleys, which were then renamed with the more elegant monikers we know today: Daxiangfeng (Great Soaring Phoenix) and Xiaoxiangfeng (Little Soaring Phoenix).

Daxiangfeng Hutong: A Gathering Place of Celebrities’ Stories

Walking into Daxiangfeng Hutong, you will see some newly renovated gateways, and on the old courtyards, traces of elaborate carvings and paintings remain—they whisper the extraordinary past of this place in silence.

Courtyard No.3: From a Writer’s Home to a Literary Institution

This courtyard was purchased by the writer Ma Feng in 1953, and was later transferred to the famous female writer Ding Ling. Today, it houses the editorial office of Minzu Literature (Ethnic Literature) under the China Writers Association and the Chinese Ethnic Minority Writers Association. The main house in the courtyard is tall, two storeys high, and colorful painted patterns can still be seen under the eaves.

Courtyard No.6: A Legend Linked to A Dream of Red Mansions

This place is said to have been the former residence of the literary giant Cao Xueqin. Some scholars believe that the prototypes of the Ningguo Mansion and Rongguo Mansion in A Dream of Red Mansions may be the Prince Gong’s Mansion and Prince Luo’s Mansion around Daxiangfeng and Xiaoxiangfeng Hutongs. Of course, this is only an academic discussion with no conclusion. Now, Courtyard No.6 is an ordinary residential compound, and its former appearance is hard to recognize, yet this legend still attracts many lovers of A Dream of Red Mansions to trace its footsteps.

Courtyard No.24: “Mei Mansion Banquet” and the Memories of Peking Opera

This place once housed the “Mei Mansion Banquet”, a restaurant themed on the Peking Opera master Mei Lanfang. Back then, the courtyard displayed old photos, performance posters, and even props from the film Rickshaw Boy. Among the most precious exhibits was the stage costume Mei Lanfang wore when performing the classic Peking Opera Drunken Concubine, donated by his son Mei Baojiu. The dishes at the restaurant were also based on the dishes Mr. Mei loved in his lifetime. Today, this place has become an office for teachers of a primary school.

 Courtyard No.41: The Starting Point of the Last Imperial Concubine

This is where the story of Wenxiu, the last imperial concubine of the Qing Dynasty, began. In 1921, Wenxiu was selected to enter the imperial palace, but as her family’s original residence was rather shabby, the last emperor, Puyi, ordered the Imperial Household Department to buy this mansion as a betrothal gift for Wenxiu’s family. On November 30 of the same year, Wenxiu left from here and walked through the Shenwu Gate into the Forbidden City. Today, the specific gateplate of Courtyard No.41 is hard to find, but the area still retains many imposing grand mansions.

 Xiaoxiangfeng Hutong: A Prince’s Villa and a Quiet Life

Xiaoxiangfeng Hutong is shaped like a “T”, connecting several alleys, and is overall more winding and tranquil than Daxiangfeng Hutong.

Courtyard No.5: The Past and Present of “Jian Garden”

This is the private villa of Prince Gong’s Mansion, named Jian Garden (Mirror Garden). In the Qing Dynasty, the strict rules inside the prince’s mansion made it inconvenient to hold singing and dancing entertainments, so the prince specially built this private villa to host singers and dancers. Adjacent to Houhai, the courtyard was equipped with bright mirrors for enjoying the lake and mountain scenery. During the Republic of China, it was owned by Lin Song Xiaolian (style name Tiemei). After the founding of the People’s Republic of China, Marshal Ye Jianying once lived here. Today, it is a Cultural Relic Protection Unit of Xicheng District, but it is not yet open to the public. This is the widest section of the hutong, where elderly people can often be seen chatting under ancient trees.

Walking through Daxiangfeng and Xiaoxiangfeng Hutongs, you will find that those stirring stories of the past have now merged into the ordinary details of daily life—as natural as old Beijingers having soybean milk with fried dough rings. History never truly fades away; it merely exists more gently, in the weathered gate piers, the casual chats of the locals, and the shade of trees in summer, becoming a more vivid and eternal memory of Beijing than any history book.