Beijing Nanluogu Xiang In-Depth Travel Guide: Exploring History and Celebrity Former Residences in the Hutong Alleys

When you visit Beijing, if you only see the Forbidden Cityand the Great Wall, your journey isn’t quite complete. In the heart of old Beijing, there is an old lane with 750 years of history—Nanluogu Xiang.

This area was the “city center” during the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties and the most important neighborhood on the east side of Beijing’s Central Axis.

Today, many tourists crowd the main street of Nanluogu Xiang, which is lined with internet-famous shops similar to those in other cities. However, the true charm of this ancient district lies in the hutong(traditional alleyways) that run like fishbones on either side of the main street. These quiet hutongs hide former residences of famous figures, ancient siheyuan(courtyard houses), and the authentic atmosphere of old Beijing life. Following this guide, you’ll avoid the crowds and embark on a genuine exploration of Beijing’s history and culture.

 What Makes Nanluogu Xiang So Special?

Nanluogu Xiang itself is about 780 meters long. Its uniqueness lies in its layout. A total of 16 hutongs are neatly arranged on the east and west sides of the lane. Looking down from above, the entire block resembles a centipede, hence it’s also nicknamed “Centipede Street.” Since its establishment in the Yuan Dynasty, this has been a place where high-ranking officials, nobles, and cultural luminaries gathered. Many historical figures, such as Chiang Kai-shek, Qi Baishi, Mao Dun, and Empress Wanrong(the last empress), once lived here.

 A Curated Tour Route: Traveling Through 750 Years of History

The following route will take you away from the noisy main street, deep into the hutongs, connecting the most important historical sites. The entire journey can be done on foot and takes approximately half a day.

Route Overview: Subway Line 8 Nanluogu Xiang StationExit E➔Dongbuyaqiao Hutong(Historical Site)
➔Yu’er Hutong(Qi Baishi Former Residence)➔Dongmianhua Hutong(Central Academy of Drama)
➔Houyuan’ensi Hutong(Mao Dun Former Residence, Chiang Kai-shek Provisional Headquarters)
➔Mao’er Hutong(Empress Wanrong’s Former Residence)➔Wanning Bridge➔Shichahai(for sunset views)

Stop 1: Starting at a Canal Site—Dongbuyaqiao Hutong

After exiting the subway station, don’t rush into the main street. First, walk east for a few minutes to find the starting point of your journey: the Dongbuyaqiao Bridge Site.

•  Historical Significance: This bridge was first built in the Yuan Dynastyand was an important sluice gate on the Beijing section of the Grand Canal (Jing-Hang Grand Canal). Grain-transport boats passed through here to reach the final terminal dock, Shichahai. You can see the preserved parts of the bridge and canal site, imagining the busy scene of boats coming and going in ancient times.
• Modern Interest: Beside the bridge, there is a caféconverted from the ancient temple “Yuhe’an.” Buying a coffee here and sitting in the small courtyard allows you to enjoy both the warm sunshine and a strong sense of history.

Stop 2: Meeting an Art Master—Yu’er Hutong (Qi Baishi Former Residence)

Walking north along the nearby Yu River (Jade River), you enter Yu’er Hutong. Courtyard No. 13in this hutong is the former residence of the great painting master Qi Baishi.

• About Qi Baishi: He is one of the most famous modern Chinese painters, especially skilled in painting flowers, birds, fish, and insects. His paintings are highly valuable in the art market; one of his works was once sold at auction for over 900 million Chinese yuan.
• What to See: This courtyard is a Qing Dynasty siheyuan. After 1955, Qi Baishi lived and created here in his later years. It is now open as the “Qi Baishi Former Residence Memorial Museum,” where you can see the restored studio and bedroom of the master and learn about his life and artistic achievements.

Stop 3: The Cradle of Stars—Dongmianhua Hutong (Central Academy of Drama)

Crossing the main street of Nanluogu Xiang brings you to Dongmianhua Hutong. Here stands one of China’s top art institutions—the Central Academy of Drama (CAD).

• Fun Fact: This academy is known as the “cradle of stars.” Many famous Chinese actors like Gong Li, Chen Daoming, and Jiang Wengraduated from here. The academy’s buildings themselves are also architecturally interesting.
•  Local Experience: Next to the school is a small restaurant jokingly called the “CAD Second Canteen,” frequented by many students and alumni, full of local life.

Stop 4: Convergence of Literature and History—Houyuan’ensi Hutong

Continuing north and turning into Houyuan’ensi Hutong, you’ll find two important courtyard houses here.

1.  Mao Dun Former Residence (Courtyard No. 13):

• About Mao Dun: Mao Dun (original name Shen Dehong) is a very important writer in modern Chinese literary history.
• What to See: This is a two-courtyard siheyuanin Republican-era style. He lived here from 1974 until his death and completed his memoirs here. The former residence now displays his personal belongings, manuscripts, and books, offering a tranquil environment.

2.  Chiang Kai-shek Provisional Headquarters (Courtyard No. 7):

Historical Background: This beautiful Western-style building served twice as temporary accommodation for Chiang Kai-shekduring his visits to Beijing in 1945 and 1948. It later became the embassy of the former Yugoslavia. The building is currently not open to the public, but its unique style can be admired from the outside.

Stop 5: The Last Empress’s Childhood Home—Mao’er Hutong

Returning to the main street and heading further south, turn into Mao’er Hutong. This is one of Beijing’s best-preserved hutongs, concealing an illustrious history.

• Empress Wanrong’s Former Residence (Courtyard No. 35): This was the home of the last empress, Empress Wanrong, before her marriage. She was born and raised here. Her father was open-minded and hired foreign tutors for her, so she was proficient in English and could play the piano. In 1922, the 16-year-old Wanrong was carried from this courtyard into the Forbidden Cityto become empress. The courtyard is currently not open to the public.
•  Other Points of Interest: Courtyard No. 13 in this hutong was once the residence of Feng Guozhang(a president during the Republic of China period). His great-grandson is Feng Gong, a household-name comedian in China.

Final Stop: Scenery Connecting Past and Present—Wanning Bridge and Shichahai

Walking to the end of Mao’er Hutong, you’ll see the Yu River(Jade River) and a pavilion. Walking west along the river for a short while brings you to Wanning Bridge.

• Wanning Bridge: This bridge is extraordinary—it sits exactly at the intersection point of Beijing’s Central Axisand the Grand Canalsite, making it a “dual landmark.”
• Shichahai Sunset: Across the bridge lies the picturesque Shichahai. I highly recommend visiting a café called “Sugarhouse Café (Tangfang Coffee)” at dusk. Head straight to its third-floor rooftop terrace—this is a premier spot for watching the sunset. You can see golden sunlight sparkling on the lake, with the ancient Drum Towerand the modern skyscraper China Zunframed together in a
  qímiào (marvelous) “past and present in one frame.

 If You Have More Time…

This main route covers the highlights. If you have extra time, you can also explore:

• Wen Chengxiang Temple (Wen Tianxiang Memorial Temple): Located in nearby Fuxue Hutong, this temple was built to commemorate the Southern Song national hero Wen Tianxiang.
• Drum Tower and Bell Tower: From Shichahai, it’s an easy walk to the ancient timekeeping center
  —the Bell and Drum Towers.
•  Yandai Xie Jie Street: A small commercial street near Shichahai with strong old Beijing character.

 Practical Tips for Foreign Visitors

• Transportation: The most convenient way is to take Subway Line 8and get off at either “Nanluogu Xiang Station” or “Shichahai Station.” They are not far apart, allowing you to start at one and end at the other, avoiding backtracking.
• Mindset for Exploration: Nanluogu Xiang’s main street is lively but commercialized. Please allocate more time and anticipation for the quiet hutongs, where real history and life reside.
• Respect Privacy: Many historical buildings are now private residences or institutions and are not open to the public. Please observe the exteriors quietly and do not disturb the residents.
• Best Time to Visit: Weekday mornings or afternoons are the best times to explore the hutongs when there are relatively fewer tourists. Save the dusk for Shichahai and the sunset.

The charm of Nanluogu Xiang extends far beyond a single lane selling souvenirs. It is a living urban museum; each hutong is a chapter of a story, each old house seals away a period of time. The next time you come to Beijing, why not slow down, follow this route, step into the folds of history yourself, and listen to the true heartbeat of this city.