Beijing’s Mianhua Hutong: The Confinement Place and Legendary Escape of National Protection General Cai E
North of Beijing’s Huguo Temple Street lies a long north-south hutong named Mianhua Hutong. It stretches from Luo’er Hutong in the north to Huguo Temple Street in the south.
The name evolved from “Mianhua Hutong” (written with the character for “silk floss”) as recorded in the Ming Dynasty; in the Qianlong Reign of the Qing Dynasty, it was officially written as the current “Mianhua Hutong” (with the character for “cotton”) due to the similarity of the two characters’ forms.
There is also a legend behind the name: Qin Liangyu, a female general at the end of the Ming Dynasty, once wove cotton cloth here to raise military pay for the army, hence the name. Of course, this claim is unsubstantiated.
Table of Contents
Quick Guide
- Highlights: Cai E’s Former Residence (No. 66 Compound), the Centuries-Old Twin Locust Trees, the Legend of Xiao Fengxian’s Rescue Mission, the Ruins of Pilu Temple, and the Historic Sesame Oil Mill
- Location: North side of Huguosi Street, Xicheng District, connecting Luo’er Hutong and Huguosi Street
- Recommended Visit Duration: 20–30 minutes
- Keywords: Republican-era legends, General’s escape, ancient locust tree landmarks, traditional alleyways
- Best Itinerary: Huguosi Snack Street → Mianhua Hutong → Twin Ancient Locust Trees → Former Residence of Cai E—explore while listening to the stories
Easiest Way to Get There | Copy the Walking Route
- Subway: Take Line 4 or 6 to Ping’anli Station, Exit B. Walk 3 minutes to Huguosi Street, then turn north, and you’ll arrive
- Recommended Route: Huguosi Snack Street → Mianhua Hutong → Cai E’s Former Residence (No. 66) → Ruins of Pilu Temple → Luo’er Hutong
- A Quick Reminder: The hutongs are quiet, and the former residence is a private home. Please admire the history from the outside only and do not disturb the residents.
A Courtyard Guarded by Two Ancient Pagoda Trees
Mianhua Hutong is a long lane, and when you reach its middle section, two huge ancient trees come into view from afar. Enclosed by iron railings, they stand like two silent guardians in front of Courtyard No.66, their dense crowns almost shading the entire sky above the hutong.
This courtyard was the former residence of Cai E, a legendary general in modern Chinese history. The general has long passed away, but these two old pagoda trees still thrive.
General Cai E’s Confinement and Sensational Escape
From 1913 to 1915, Yuan Shikai, who held supreme power, confined Cai E in Beijing to prevent him from opposing his rule. At that time, Cai E lived in Courtyard No.66.
In 1915, Yuan Shikai’s ambition swelled as he planned to restore the monarchy and proclaim himself emperor. On the surface, Cai E pretended to be indifferent to state affairs and even indulged in the opera house; secretly, however, he collaborated with a woman named Xiao Fengxian and elaborately plotted his escape.
In November of the same year, Cai E successfully left Beijing in secret, first heading to Tianjin, then taking a long detour, and finally arriving in Kunming, Yunnan, on December 19.
By this time, Yuan Shikai had officially proclaimed himself emperor, ordering the abolition of the Republic of China and the adoption of the “Hongxian” reign title.
Upon arriving in Kunming, Cai E immediately announced Yunnan’s independence with Tang Jiyao and other patriots on December 25, organizing the National Protection Army to launch an armed expedition against Yuan Shikai. Cai E served as the Commander-in-Chief of the First Army of the National Protection Army.
This just war garnered nationwide support. On March 22, 1916, under immense pressure, Yuan Shikai was forced to annul the monarchy. In June of the same year, Yuan Shikai died of illness. In July, Li Yuanhong, the succeeding President of the Republic of China, appointed Cai E as the Military Governor of Sichuan.
However, years of relentless warfare and toil had broken Cai E’s health. His condition deteriorated sharply by then, and throat cancer left him barely able to carry on.
In September 1916, he sailed to Japan for medical treatment, but ultimately succumbed to his illness in November of the same year in Fukuoka, Japan, at the young age of 34. A generation of military stars fell just like that.
Today, the exterior of Courtyard No.66 is quite dilapidated, housing about a dozen families, and bears no resemblance to its former appearance at all.
Other Stories in Mianhua Hutong
Mianhua Hutong holds more than just this piece of history.
- Courtyard No.16: It is the former site of Longjuyong, a time-honored brand of the Qing Dynasty. The gate tower still retains blue brick plaques engraved with “Sesame Oil Mill” and “Southern Pickle Garden”, a testament to its business back in the day. To this day, the surrounding area is still like a bustling small market, brimming with the vibrant flavor of ordinary people’s daily life.
- Courtyard No.53: It is the former site of Pilu Temple. First built in the Qianlong Reign of the Qing Dynasty, the temple enshrined Vairocana Buddha, one of the supreme deities in Esoteric Buddhism. Now, it has also become a multi-family courtyard, with makeshift color steel plate shanties covering part of the roof. Fortunately, however, two ancient pagoda trees are still well preserved in the courtyard.
A Hutong with Warmth
From the legend of the late Ming Dynasty, to the epic tale of a Republican general, and then to the enduring time-honored brands and the daily life of ordinary people, Mianhua Hutong, with its mere several hundred meters in length, bears stories and warmth spanning hundreds of years.
When you walk under those two ancient pagoda trees, you may still feel the lingering echo of that thrilling and stirring period of history in the wind.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Why is Mianhua Hutong called “Mianhua”?
A: During the Ming Dynasty, it was known as “Mianhua Hutong,” which later evolved into “Mianhua.” According to folklore, the female general Qin Liangyu spun cotton here to raise funds for her troops, hence the name.
Q: What is the address of Cai E’s former residence?
A: No. 66 Mianhua Hutong. The two massive ancient locust trees in front of the house are very distinctive and easy to spot at a glance.
Q: Is the story of Cai E and Xiao Fengxian true?
A: Historical records confirm that while Cai E was under house arrest, Xiao Fengxian helped cover for him and mislead secret agents, enabling him to escape and return to Yunnan to raise an army against Yuan Shikai.
Q: Can visitors tour the former residence today?
A: It is currently a residential compound and not open to the public. However, visitors can view the exterior from the entrance and soak in the historical atmosphere.
