Mao'er Hutong

2026 Mao’er Hutong Beijing Travel Guide: Former Residence of Wanrong (the Last Empress) beside Nanluoguxiang, how to get there and how long to visit

After exploring the bustling Nanluoguxiang, take a turn into the adjacentMao’er Hutong for a stroll through time. This hutong connects to Di’anmenwai Street at its western end.

Though short, it conceals numerous top-tier historical sites—from imperial gardens to the former residence of the last empress—making it a rich repository of Old Beijing’s history.

Quick Facts: A Quick Guide to Mao’er Hutong

  • Location: Stretching from Nanluoguxiang in the east to Dianmenwai Street in the west; the entire route takes less than 10 minutes to walk
  • Key Attractions: Wan Rong’s Former Residence, Ke Yuan, Feng Guozhang’s Former Residence, Ruins of Wenchang Palace
  • Historical Significance: One of Old Beijing’s Top Ten Hutongs, once a residential area for the city’s elite
  • Visitor Tips: Most former residences are private homes or closed to the public; take your time admiring the gatehouses and savoring the details for the full experience

The Most Hassle-Free Way to Get There | Blogger-Tested Route (No Detours, No Pitfalls)

①Subway is the top choice (fastest and most reliable)

Line 6 / Line 8: Exit E at Nanluoguxiang Station

After exiting, walk north along the main street of Nanluoguxiang for about 200 meters. Turn into the alley on the west side, and you’ll reach the pedestrian entrance of Mao’er Hutong in 5 minutes. With fewer crowds and a serene atmosphere, you’ll instantly step from the bustling city into the old Beijing of yesteryear.

Line 8: Exit C at Shichahai Station

If you prefer to enter from the West Gate and stroll eastward at a leisurely pace, this route is more comfortable. It takes just 3–5 minutes on foot and lets you avoid the crowds at the East Gate.

②Direct Bus (Ideal for a Stop-by Visit)

  • Dianmen East Station: Buses 13, 42, 60, 118, 612, and 701. Get off and walk a few hundred meters to the West Entrance.
  • Gulou Street / Gulou South Station: Buses 107, 124, 5, and 82. It’s a 4–10-minute walk, and you can snap a photo of the Drum Tower while you’re there.

The alleys are narrow with almost no parking spaces. With traffic jams and difficulty finding parking, taking the subway is definitely the best option.

If taking a taxi, ask the driver to drop you off at the west entrance of Mao’er Hutong (on the side of Di’anmenwai Street) or near Exit E of Nanluoguxiang. Walking in from there is the smoothest route.

④My Secret Itinerary

Nanluoguxiang Main Street→Mao’er Hutong→Keyuan Garden→Feng Guozhang’s Former Residence→Wanrong’s Former Residence→Ruins of Wenchang Palace→Di’anmenwai Street. Taking your time, this entire route takes exactly one hour—no backtracking required.

The Origin of Mao’er Hutong’s Name

During the Ming Dynasty, Mao’er Hutong was known as “Zitong Temple Wenchang Palace Hutong, ”named after the Wenchang Emperor Temple located here. It wasn’t until the Qing Dynasty that it was renamed “Mao’er Hutong, ”a name that has persisted to this day.

Mao'er Hutong

Keyuan: A Premier Private Garden

Hidden within the courtyard at No. 9 lies Keyuan, a premier private garden constructed by Wen Yu, a Grand Secretary of the late Qing Dynasty. Though compact in size, its pavilions, towers, rockeries, and ponds are arranged with exquisite artistry, exuding the charm of southern Chinese gardens. Hailed as one of Beijing’s most representative private gardens, it is now a nationally protected cultural site. Unfortunately, it remains closed to the public, leaving visitors to admire its elegance only from the outside.

Keyuan

Feng Guozhang’s Former Residence: Witness to Republican Turmoil

Adjacent to Keyuan at No. 11 is the former residence of Feng Guozhang. Feng Guozhang, a prominent figure who served as acting president during the Beiyang Government era, purchased this residence originally belonging to Wen Yu in 1917. He resided here until he died in 1919. The small open space and mounting stone before the gate still quietly narrate tales of that bygone era.

No. 11 Courtyard, Former Residence of Feng Guozhang

The “Empress’s Residence ”of Wanrong, the Last Empress

Courtyards 35 and 37 in the hutong were the pre-wedding residence of Wanrong, Empress of the last emperor Puyi, known as the “Empress’s Mansion. ”Due to her status, the compound was expanded and elevated to the “Mansion of the Duke of Cheng’en. ”Now with its gates permanently closed, only a plaque designating it as a “Beijing Municipal Cultural Heritage Site” remains, making it difficult for the public to glimpse its interior.

Empress's Residence

Wenchang Palace Ruins: A Hidden Ming Dynasty Temple

No. 21 Mao’er Hutong houses the ruins of Wenchang Palace. Originally built in 1477 during the Ming Dynasty to honor Wenchang, the god of literary fortune, it was once one of Beijing’s renowned “Five Altars and Eight Temples.” Today, the site is occupied by an elementary school.

Finding the actual ruins requires a bit of patience. Follow a small northward side alley from the middle of the hutong to its dead end, where you’ll discover a section of wall. A plaque beside it notes that within lie Ming and Qing dynasty steles and temple ruins. One stele bears inscriptions written by Liu Yong, a Grand Secretary of the Qing court.

Though the interior appears somewhat dilapidated and cluttered, standing here, you can feel the weight of history. Emerging from the ruins and seeing parents waiting to pick up their children in the alley creates a remarkable sense of history and modernity intertwining.

My Personal Travel Tips

Mao’er Hutong has never been a typical “check-in” spot; instead, it’s a hidden gem meant for leisurely exploration.

Ke Yuan and Wanrong’s Former Residence is closed to the public, so don’t insist on getting inside. Instead, take your time to admire the gate towers, screen walls, and brick carvings—every detail tells a story.

Be sure to seek out the ruins of Wenchang Palace—the thrill of this “treasure hunt” is something you won’t find in standard travel guides.

Avoid the crowds; visiting in the early morning or late afternoon is most pleasant, when sunlight filters through the gray tiles and the alley’s atmosphere is at its peak.

After exploring the alley, take a stroll to Dianmenwai Street to savor some authentic Old Beijing snacks—the perfect way to round off your visit.

Exploring Mao’er Hutong feels like a treasure hunt. Though Kegarden and Wanrong’s Former Residence are closed to the public, admiring their exteriors and imagining life in those days is still fascinating. Don’t forget to spend some time seeking out the hidden ruins of Wenchang Palace tucked away in the depths. The thrill of discovery and the sense of historical grandeur will make your Beijing hutong journey truly unforgettable.

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