Dongchang Hutong, Beijing: The Former Site of a Ming Dynasty Secret Service Agency and Travel Guide (2026)

> Dongchang Hutong is less than 320 meters long and takes just five minutes to walk through, yet over the past six centuries, it has served as a secret police headquarters, a private garden, a presidential residence, and a center of learning.

It’s a five-minute walk from the subway station, and admission is free. There are no signs of commercialization here—only authentic history and the genuine daily lives of residents.

Practical Information (Must-Read Before Departure)

Item	Details
Name	Dongchang Hutong (Pinyin: `Dongchang Hutong`)
Address	Dongcheng District, Beijing; runs east-west from Wangfujing Street in the east to Donghuangchenggen South Street in the west, bordering Anju Li to the south and Dongchang North Alley to the north; total length 319 meters, width 7 meters; paved with asphalt
Subway	Line 8, National Art Museum of China Station, Exit A. After exiting the station, head south across the intersection (Ping’an Street/Wusi Street) and enter Donghuangchenggen South Street. The Imperial City Wall Relics Park is located on the east side of this street. Walk straight south along the east side of the park for about 5 minutes; the western entrance to Dongchang Hutong will be on your left (east side). The total distance is approximately 300 meters.
Bus	Take Buses 104, 108, 111, etc., and get off at the “Art Museum” stop; or take Buses 2, 60, etc., and get off at the “North of Shatan Road Intersection” stop
By Car	Not recommended. There are virtually no parking spaces for tourists within the hutong. If taking a taxi, use the destination “West Entrance of Dongchang Hutong (Donghuangchenggen South Street)” or “East Entrance of Dongchang Hutong (Wangfujing Street)”; entering from the Wangfujing Street side is more convenient for getting out
Admission	Free throughout. The hutong itself is an open street, accessible 24/7.
Hours	The hutong is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. However, please remain quiet in residential areas and avoid disturbing residents.
Best Time to Visit	Before 10:00 AM or after 3:00 PM on weekdays. The morning offers good lighting for photography; the afternoon is less crowded, making it ideal for a quiet stroll. Walking the entire length of the hutong takes about 5–10 minutes.
Recommended Duration	30–45 minutes (It takes only 5 minutes to walk through, but if you want to take your time exploring the historical sites, we recommend setting aside 30–45 minutes)
Dress Code	Wear comfortable flat shoes. The hutong’s pavement is asphalt and very flat and easy to walk on.
Budget Guide	The alley is free to visit. There are no dining options within the alley; if you plan to eat on Wangfujing Street, lunch costs range from 30 to 150 yuan (approximately $4–$20).
Photography	Photography is permitted. You may take photos outdoors throughout the entire alley. However, most courtyards are now private residences or office spaces, so please do not enter without permission and avoid photographing residents’ windows.
Language Support	There are no English information boards within the hutong. We recommend researching in advance or using a mobile translation app.
On-Site Reminder	The main gate at No. 27 Wangfujing Street (formerly No. 1 Dongchang Hutong) is currently guarded by security personnel, and the interior is not open to visitors. Please view the gate from the outside and take photos of it; do not attempt to force your way into the office area.

>Friendly Reminder: The eastern entrance of Dongchang Hutong connects to Wangfujing Street, while the western entrance connects to Donghuangchenggen South Street (Imperial City Wall Ruins Park). There are many attractions to explore in both directions.

Most of the courtyards within the hutong are residential, so please keep quiet and respect the residents’ privacy.

Additionally, this hutong still houses some research institutes and scholar dormitories of the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences. As you walk here, behind the gray walls and tiles you see, there may be a historian researching archives related to the very hutong you are walking on.

Why Is It Called Dongchang Hutong?

The character “厂” here does not refer to a factory, but rather to an ancient government office. The full name of “Dongchang” is “Dong Jishi Chang,” a secret intelligence agency established by the emperors of the Ming Dynasty that reported directly to the emperor.

Its offices were located in this alley. Consequently, the alley was named after this agency, and the name has been in use ever since.

When viewed within the context of world history, the “Dongchang” was established in 1420, 150 years before the British secret intelligence network formed by Francis Walsingham, the master spy of Queen Elizabeth I (circa the 1570s), and 200 years earlier than the “national intelligence system” (1620s).

From a global perspective, the Dongchang was one of the earliest professional secret intelligence agencies established at the state level in human history.

The Dongchang was overseen by eunuchs in the emperor’s inner circle and possessed immense power, allowing it to arrest and interrogate individuals directly without approval from regular judicial authorities.

It worked in coordination with another famous secret agency, the “Jinyiwei,” but the Dongchang’s authority surpassed that of the Jinyiwei.

>International Perspective Tip: To explain the transformation of the compound at No. 1 Dongchang Hutong (now No. 27 Wangfujing Street) using an analogy that a Western tourist would instantly grasp, it’s as if “the headquarters of Britain’s MI5 were turned into the Prime Minister’s residence at 10 Downing Street, and then later converted into the History Department building at the University of Oxford.”

From a secret police headquarters to a presidential residence, and then to an academic sanctuary—over a distance of 319 meters, it has undergone three stunning transformations.

Six Centuries of Dongchang Hutong: A Journey Through Time

The story of Dongchang Hutong is like a revolving door—push it open, and you step into a completely different era.

1. The Ming Dynasty (c. 1420–1644): Headquarters of the Empire’s “Secret Police.”

In the 18th year of the Yongle reign (1420), Zhu Di had just relocated the capital from Nanjing to Beijing. Needing an institution to monitor civil and military officials and prevent rebellion, he established the Dongchang alongside the Jinyiwei.

The Dongchang’s offices were located right here in this alley. Hanging in the center of its main hall was a portrait of Yue Fei, with a plaque inscribed with the words “Loyalty and Dedication to the Nation.” Under this banner of “loyalty and righteousness,” it carried out some of the most rigorous secret surveillance in the world.

The Dongchang was headed by a eunuch who held the seal of authority. Below him were the Chief of Punishment (Qianhu), the Deputy Chief of Punishment (Baihu), as well as “agents” (Fanzi) and “foremen” (Yichang) dedicated to investigation and apprehension. These officials could arrest, interrogate, and imprison suspects directly, without any judicial process.

The Eastern Factory’s most notorious period was during the Tianqi era (the 1620s). After the eunuch Wei Zhongxian seized power, he transformed the Eastern Factory into a weapon for eliminating political opponents.

In the fifth year of the Tianqi era (1625), Yang Lian, leader of the Donglin Party, submitted a memorial accusing Wei Zhongxian of corruption. Instead, he was thrown into the Eastern Factory’s dungeon on charges of corruption.

Historical records indicate that while in prison, Yang Lian endured brutal tortures such as being crushed under sacks of earth and having iron nails driven through his ears. Despite this, he bit through his finger to write a blood-stained letter, in which he wrote, “Laugh, laugh, and laugh again,” declaring that Wei Zhongxian’s crimes would eventually be exposed by history.

After the fall of the Ming Dynasty, the Dongchang was abolished, but the name “Dongchang” remains on the street sign of this alley.

2. The Qing Dynasty (c. 1644–1912): From a Fearsome Government Office to the Private Gardens of the Elite

After the Eastern Factory was abolished, the land that had once housed its offices gradually became the residences of the elite. Alantai, Minister of Personnel during the Kangxi reign, was the first to move in, transforming the dilapidated compound into a private residence.

By the Daoguang and Xianfeng reigns, Rui Lin, a Grand Secretary (a high-ranking official equivalent to a chancellor), purchased the property. A man of extravagant tastes, he transformed the western part of the alley into a magnificent residence, while in the eastern section, he constructed an exquisitely beautiful private garden, which he named “Yi Yuan.”

It is said that the garden’s rockeries, ponds, and flora were modeled after the gardens of southern China, making it exceptionally refined.

In 1900, when the Eight-Nation Alliance invaded Beijing, German troops, impressed by the garden’s grandeur, converted it into a field hospital. Foreign soldiers’ boots trampled the flower-lined paths Rui Lin had meticulously laid out, and hospital beds were set up in the pavilions by the lake.

Although the garden was not destroyed by the war, it ceased to be purely private property from that point on.

After the Allied forces withdrew, Rui Lin’s grandson, Fonyinbu, undertook a major restoration of the garden. He rebuilt the scenery from the ruins and renamed the garden “Yu Yuan”—a name signifying “survival after a catastrophe,” referring both to the garden’s escape from the flames of war and alluding to the turbulent ups and downs of the estate’s three-century history.

In 1904 (the 30th year of the Guangxu reign), he made a surprising decision: to open Yuyuan to the general public. The garden established a restaurant, a tea house, and a photography studio, welcoming visitors to explore freely.

In Beijing, all imperial gardens had previously been locked behind high walls, making it difficult for ordinary people to even approach them. Yet this former secret service headquarters was the first to open its doors to the public. It was one of the earliest prototypes of a “park” in Beijing.

3. Late Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China (c. 1900–1949): Presidential Residence and Hub of Japanese Culture

During the reign of Emperor Guangxu, Rong Lu, the Viceroy of Zhili (and a close confidant of Empress Dowager Cixi), took up residence at Yu Garden. He was an old-school power broker with a keen interest in new technologies.

He installed electric lights in his own courtyard—apart from the Imperial Palace, Ronglu’s residence on Dongchang Hutong was the first place in all of Beijing to have electric lighting.

When the lights first flickered to life among the blue bricks and gray tiles, the maids and servants were so frightened they all knelt on the ground. Ronglu smiled and told them, “This is civilization; do not be afraid.” Yet he himself would often sit alone by the pond late at night, gazing absently at the reflections of the lights on the water.

By then, the Qing Dynasty was already teetering on the brink of collapse; the light from that Western-style lamp illuminated the final twilight of an empire.

After the Xinhai Revolution, the Qing Dynasty fell. To win over then-Vice President Li Yuanhong (who later served as President of the Republic of China), Yuan Shikai spent a fortune to purchase this courtyard from Ronglu’s descendants and presented it to Li Yuanhong.

After Yuan Shikai proclaimed himself emperor, he bestowed upon Li Yuanhong the title of “Prince of Wuyi” and sent men to deliver a plaque to Dongchang Hutong.

Li Yuanhong refused to give this “emperor” the satisfaction—he spat at the messenger’s back, removed the plaque, and tossed it into the horse stall in the back yard, firmly rejecting the title.

After Yuan Shikai’s death, Li Yuanhong succeeded him as president, and his inauguration ceremony was held right here in the Dongchang Hutong compound.

Later, the compound served as the residence of the manager of the Salt Industry Bank and the official residence of the Director of the Beiping Municipal Finance Bureau. Each successive owner replaced the couplets on the gate, and the inscriptions on the walls were covered with layer upon layer of paint.

After the Japanese army occupied Beiping, they renamed the alley “Dongchang Hutong” and established the “Committee for Oriental Cultural Affairs” there, a research institution dedicated to cultural infiltration.

Even more cruelly, Courtyard No. 28 was requisitioned by the Japanese army and converted into a secret prison to detain anti-Japanese patriots. Traces of the prison from that era can still be seen in the courtyard today.

Walking here, the gray bricks on the walls and the small iron windows that have been bricked up seem to still be silently recounting a past too painful to recall.

4. From the End of the War of Resistance to the Present: From the Presidential Palace to the Academic Hall

After the victory in the War of Resistance, Hu Shih became president of Peking University. The compound at No. 1 Dongchang Hutong was assigned to the Institute of Humanities at Peking University, and Hu Shih lived in a courtyard house at its center.

Every day, he would set out from there and walk to the nearby Red Building at Peking University for work. Joining him in his scholarly pursuits were a group of leading scholars, including Fan Wenlan, Deng Guangming, and Tang Yongtong.

After Hu Shih left Beijing, this grand compound underwent one of the most remarkable transformations in modern Chinese history: the Presidential Palace of the Republic of China became an academic research base for the new China.

After 1949, the Institute of Modern History of the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences moved in, with Fan Wenlan serving as director and taking up residence in the very courtyard where Hu Shih had once lived.

The Institute of Modern History of the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences remained here until 2019, when it finally relocated. This alley has witnessed nearly all the changes that have taken place over the past six hundred years.

Key Highlights: A 319-Meter Walk Through Six Centuries, from West to East

Dongchang Hutong is very short; it takes only about ten minutes to walk from the west end to the east end at a leisurely pace. But if you want to pause and take in the history, be sure to pay attention to the following spots in order:

1. The West End of the Hutong and Courtyard No. 28 (Former Site of the Japanese Military Prison)

Upon entering from the west end, on your right (north side of the street), you’ll find a compound consisting of three small gray two-story buildings—this is Courtyard No. 28. It is also the only place in this section of the hutong that bears the “cold, grim mark” of modern history.

During the Japanese occupation of Beiping, this site was converted into a secret prison used to detain and interrogate anti-Japanese patriots. Elderly residents recall that the basement housed water torture chambers and interrogation rooms.

Late at night, when all was quiet, faint sounds of trickling water and suppressed moans could often be heard coming from below. The roof of the single-story building on the north side facing the street has long since collapsed, exposing broken wooden beams. The two-story building on the south side is still inhabited by residents.

On-site Observation Guide: As you pass by Courtyard No. 28, please look down close to the ground. You will see a row of small iron-barred windows, approximately 30 centimeters long and 10 centimeters high. These were the only openings used to deliver food and provide ventilation to the underground cells during the Japanese occupation. They stand as the quietest yet most powerful witnesses to that dark chapter of history.

Site Note: Courtyard No. 28 is currently used as ordinary residential and office space and is not open to the public. Please do not enter without authorization. Simply view the exterior of the building from the alley.

2. The Middle Section of the Hutong (Ronglu Mansion Area)

Walking eastward from the west entrance to the middle section, the large compound on the north side of the street was once Ronglu’s residence—the first place in Beijing, aside from the Forbidden City, to have electric lighting.

Today, this area is a mix of research institutes affiliated with the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences and residential buildings, and it is not open to the public. Standing in the alley, one need only imagine the old incandescent lights that illuminated the Imperial City walls on a late night a century ago.

3. Compound No. 27 Area (No. 1 Dongchang Hutong / No. 27 Wangfujing Street)

Located at the eastern entrance of the hutong, this large compound—whose main gate faces Wangfujing Street—is the most significant historical landmark in the entire hutong. It has two street addresses: No. 1 Dongchang Hutong and No. 27 Wangfujing Street, both referring to the same area.

This compound has undergone the following transformations:

> Ming Dynasty Dongchang Bureau → Qing Dynasty Rui Lin Residence → Rong Lu Mansion → Residence of Republic of China President Li Yuanhong → Japanese Army Oriental Cultural Affairs Committee → Peking University Institute of Humanities → Former Residence of Hu Shi → Institute of Modern History, Chinese Academy of Social Sciences → CAS Building Complex

In a sense, researchers of modern Chinese history have ultimately taken up residence in the former site of a Ming Dynasty secret police agency. From the architects of wrongful convictions to the scholars studying them, this courtyard has undergone the most complete reversal of identity.

After assuming the presidency of Peking University in 1946, Hu Shih lived in one of the courtyard houses.

In 1947, Peking University students held a “protest against hunger and civil war” rally outside the compound at No. 1 Dongchang Hutong. Hu Shih’s secretary-general, Deng Guangming, emerged from the south gate of the living room and told the students, “President Hu Shih is not here.”

After Hu Shih left Beijing in late 1948, Minister of Education Ma Xulun—who did not yet own a car—requisitioned the sedan Hu Shih had left behind from Peking University for his own use. The handover of a sedan at the gate of the Dongchang Hutong compound symbolized the transfer of power from the Republic of China to the People’s Republic of China.

Current Status: The western half of this area is now home to the Institute of Modern History and the Institute of World History of the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences (with some units still operating here), while the eastern half serves as scholar housing.

Although the main body of the Institute of Modern History moved to the new premises of the Chinese Academy of History in 2019, some departments and staff remain in this historic compound, which dates back to the 15th century.

The main entrance to this compound is now located at No. 27 Wangfujing Street; it is no longer accessible from Dongchang Hutong.

On-site Note: Security personnel are currently stationed at the main gate at No. 27 Wangfujing Street, and the interior is not open to visitors. Please view the site from the entrance and take photos of the understated yet imposing gate; do not attempt to force your way into the office area.

For visitors, all you can do is pause for a moment at the eastern end of the alley, then turn onto Wangfujing Street, locate the No. 27 address, and imagine the tumultuous events of the past six centuries.

4. The Hutong Itself: Authentic Old Beijing Life

Perhaps the greatest charm of Dongchang Hutong lies not in any specific “attraction,” but in the hutong itself. Here, no street vendors are hawking their wares, no souvenir shops with cookie-cutter interiors, and no crowds of tourists.

What you see are the homes where ordinary Beijingers have lived for hundreds of years—gray brick walls, red wooden doors, ivy climbing the walls, quilts drying at the door, and flower pots on the windowsills.

Photography Guide (Including Tips for a “Cinematic” Look)

Camera Angle	Location	Best Time to Shoot	What to Shoot & Tips
Signpost at the West Entrance of the Hutong	Entrance to Donghuangchenggen South Street	Morning or Evening	The four characters “Dongchang Hutong” on the signpost + gray walls; starting point of the hutong tour
Gray-brick Buildings at No. 28 Courtyard	North Side of the Road (Western Section)	Morning	Exterior walls of the three small two-story gray buildings, old iron window grilles, and cool gray tones. Special Tip: Look for the row of small iron-barred windows on the ground. This is an excellent vantage point for capturing that authentic Beijing noir vibe (`Authentic Peking Noir`). The strong contrast between light and shadow makes for eye-catching Instagram posts
Old Locust Tree in the Middle Section of the Hutong	North Side of the Middle Section	Afternoon	Gray brick walls + dense foliage + light and shadow patterns—a classic Old Beijing hutong scene. Perfect for capturing “Hutong Chiaroscuro”—sunlight filtering through locust leaves casts dappled shadows on the gray walls, ideal for an artistic aesthetic
Intersection of Dongchang North Alley	Entrance to the northern side alley in the middle section	All day	A narrow, deep alley with old power lines—perfect for capturing the hustle and bustle of everyday life
Eastern section of the hutong	Near the eastern entrance	Late afternoon	Shot from deep within the hutong toward the eastern entrance, with the buildings of Wangfujing Street visible in the distance—a striking contrast between old and new

Connecting the Area: Dongchang Hutong and Other Hutongs Form the “Classic Loop of Beijing’s Heart”

Dongchang Hutong is located in a prime central area, adjacent to Cuihua Hutong, Wangfujing Street, the National Art Museum of China, Peking University’s Red Building, and several other hutongs I’ve previously covered.

The historical periods and geographical areas of these hutongs partially overlap, allowing them to be explored in a single day. Together, they form a “Classic Loop of Beijing’s Heart”—a route that requires no transportation and is entirely walkable.

– Cuihua Hutong: Adjacent to the south side of Dongchang Hutong. From a north-south connecting alleyway (Dongchang South Alley) in the middle section of Dongchang Hutong, you can walk directly to Cuihua Hutong on the south side in just 2 minutes.

Courtyard 27 in Cuihua Hutong is the former site of the Beijing Command Headquarters during the period of cooperation between the Communist Party and the Kuomintang; Li Dazhao and Cai Heshen once directed operations from there.

The Yuebin Restaurant in Courtyard 43 was China’s first privately owned restaurant; it opened in 1980 and has been in continuous operation ever since.

It serves authentic Beijing-style home cooking with menus in both Chinese and English, with prices ranging from about 50 to 80 yuan (approximately $7–$11) per person.

Just a 2-minute walk away, you can seamlessly switch to 【In-Depth Guide to Cuihua Hutong: The Free Hutong Next to Wangfujing and China’s First Privately Owned Restaurant】 to check out that legendary Business License No. 001!

– National Art Museum of China: Walk north along Donghuangchenggen South Street from the west entrance of Dongchang Hutong for about 5 minutes to reach this national-level art museum. It frequently hosts special exhibitions; admission is free but requires booking.

– Peking University Red Building: Walk north from the east entrance of Dongchang Hutong (Wangfujing Street), then west along Wusi Street for about 5 minutes. The birthplace of the May Fourth Movement and an iconic building of China’s New Culture Movement; free admission.

– Wangfujing Street: The eastern entrance of Dongchang Hutong connects directly to Wangfujing Street. After exploring the hutong, you’ll step right onto Beijing’s most famous commercial pedestrian street, offering a full range of shopping, dining, and entertainment options.

– Shenwu Gate of the Forbidden City / Jingshan Park: Walk west from the western entrance of Dongchang Hutong for about 15 minutes to reach Shenwu Gate of the Forbidden City and Jingshan Park. The Wanchun Pavilion at the summit of Jingshan Hill offers a panoramic view of the Forbidden City—it’s one of Beijing’s best-value scenic spots. Admission is 2 yuan (about $0.30), and a 15-minute climb up rewards you with a full view of the Central Axis.

– Zhiranju Hutong: Head north from Dongchang Hutong for about a 10-minute walk to reach this area. It features the ruins of the Ming Dynasty’s Imperial Textile and Dyeing Bureau, the former site of Huayan Temple from the Qing Dynasty, and the ruins of a Ming Dynasty government office—all dating from roughly the same era as Dongchang Hutong and sharing a similar architectural style. You can easily explore all these sites in a single day.

– Doufuchi Hutong: Head north from Dongchang Hutong for about 15 minutes on foot. Home to Hong’en Temple (Guanzhong Cultural Space) and the former residence of Yang Changji, this is where the young Mao Zedong and Yang Kaihui first fell in love—making it an essential stop on the “Red Beijing Explorer Loop.”

If you’d like to head north to explore the “Red Beijing Loop” at the northern end of Beijing’s Central Axis, check out my guide 【Doufuchi Hutong: The “Crucial Point at the Dragon’s Tail” Next to the Bell and Drum Towers and Yang Changji’s Former Residence】 to see the stunning coffee space at Hong’en Temple following its 2026 renovation.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Dining Recommendations

There are no dining establishments within Dongchang Hutong. We recommend the following places for meals:

– Yuebin Restaurant (No. 43, Cuihua Hutong): China’s first privately owned restaurant. Signature dishes include braised pork hock with garlic paste, shredded vegetable salad, and pan-fried tofu pockets.

The menu is available in both Chinese and English, with prices ranging from approximately 50 to 80 yuan (about $7–$11) per person.

Walk south from the north-south side alley (Dongchang South Alley) in the middle of Dongchang Hutong, and you’ll see it in about 2 minutes.

– Along Wangfujing Street: Exit Dongchang Hutong at the east end to reach Wangfujing Street. Here you’ll find Quanjude Peking Duck, Donglaishun Hot Pot, Old Beijing-style Zha Jiang Mian, and various international chain restaurants—with options to suit every budget.

– Along Shatan Back Street/Beiheyan: Exit the west end of Dongchang Hutong and head north toward the Shatan Back Street area, where you’ll find many small eateries and coffee shops.

>Payment Information: Large restaurants and chain stores on Wangfujing Street generally accept international credit cards. Time-honored establishments like Yuebin Restaurant also widely accept Alipay and WeChat Pay (some allow linking of foreign credit cards). Cash is accepted without issue throughout the area.

Dongchang Hutong is only 319 meters long, and it takes just a few minutes to walk from the west end to the east end. Yet every step of those 319 meters spans six centuries—spies, dignitaries, presidents, and scholars have all witnessed, one after another, the most dramatic upheavals in the history of Beijing and indeed all of China.

It requires no admission fee and no reservation. It lies quietly between Wangfujing Street and the Imperial City Wall, free from the overcommercialization of Nanluoguxiang and devoid of the contrived packaging of “red tourist sites” or “imperial aura.”

It is living history. Behind the red-lacquered wooden doors, an elderly woman hangs out her bedsheets, while a senior scholar from the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences rides an old bicycle through the narrow alley on his way to work.

Six hundred years ago, agents of the Dongchang walked here; a hundred years ago, Li Yuanhong and Hu Shi walked here; and today, you walk here—all of you treading the same path of gray bricks and tiles.

When exploring Dongchang Hutong, don’t rush to finish. Walk a little slower, look up at the street signs on the walls, and reflect on the immense changes and continuities in China and the world from 1420 to 2026. Then turn into Cuihua Hutong for a plate of garlic-marinated pork hock; just 500 meters away lies the bustling Wangfujing.

This is the charm of Dongchang Hutong: it never stops for anyone, nor does it let history be buried. It stands right in the heart of Beijing’s bustling city center—unassuming, unassuming, waiting for every one of you willing to slow down.